Whether for traditional Mexican food or modern frou-frou, Leslie Brenner's call on Dallas to work for and claim this mantle makes me laugh.
First, on the traditional side, and the first modernization wave, Texans don't know real Mexican, outside of places in and near the Valley. Traditional generic Ameri-Mex foods were largely invented outside of Texas, like the burrito in Tucson. What Texans misspell and call "chili" is laughed at in New Mexico, the home of the oldest Mexican-American culture in the US.
Cali-Mex is, if not better than Tex-Mex by a lot, is by at least a bit.
Plus, Los Angeles can easily top Dallas on the frou-frou side. And per capita, Santa Fe, I mean Fanta Se, surely can.
As far as traditional, early modern plus frou-frou together, I'd take Santa Fe, Albuquerque, Tucson and Denver ahead of Dallas. Through out the frou-frou, I'd take Las Cruces.
Hell, I wouldn't even take Dallas first in Texas. For the whole enchilada of all three timespans together, I'd take San Antonio first. Austin might be second.
Through out the frou-frou, and El Paso is ahead of all. Lower Valley cities probably are, too.
Besides, knowing Leslie Brenner's food review history with the Snooze, I know how many jars of salsa to take this idea with. And, given the snootiness that has sometimes involved, maybe she and her Mexican food aspirations for Dallas are being hoist by the same large petard.
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